Corfu-Saranda ferry times summer 2017

For some reason it is not easy to find up-to-date information about the ferry services between Corfu and Saranda.

The four companies which operate this route are Ionian Cruises, Finikas, Sarris and Joy Lines.

Tickets can be bought online and at the port, costing about 23€ one way,  depending on whether you take the fast boat (40 mins) or the slow boat (70 mins) which is slightly cheaper.

Be sure to get to the port at least half an hour early as there may be a long queue for passport control and the scanner for your luggage and only one officer dealing with it.

Here are the timtables I picked up in July 2017.

and the links to Ionian:  https://ionianseaways.com/
and Finikas : www.finikas-lines.com/

There is also a ferry to Himare apparently but I haven't found any information about it yet.

Have a good trip!

Vegetarian in Albania? No problem! ( Albanian food overview)

two types of fergese: one made with ricotta cheese
one tomato and peppers, accompanied by garlic mayo

perime zgare

Well my guidebook indicates that vegetarians will have a hard time in Albania.  However, having travelled extensively in neighbouring Greece, I felt rather suspicious about that and was indeed proven right.  I eat dairy products and eggs,  I know things will be more compicated for vegans, but not impossible.

Overwieght people are conspicuous in their absence. Albanians have a healthy, varied diet: lots of salads, fresh veg, locally-caught fish and seafood on the coast and meat inland.  Desserts do not normally feature on the menus, although complementary a plate of fruit is often served at the end of a meal.  There is also a strong Italian influence, meaning pizza and pasta restaurants are everywhere.  What we didn't see anywhere were American chain fast-food joints (although there are burger bars). Nor did we see Chinese restaurants, curry houses, Mexican or anything remotely international.   I guess you have to go to Tirana for that (if you really need to!)

Take into account that the food is usually prepared when you order it, not simply reheated in a microwave, which can mean a long wait, (pass the time sampling the excellent local wines and beers). But don't wait until you are ravenous before you search for a place for lunch.  And if you are starving and still waiting after half an hour, then remind yourself how long it takes you to prepare a meal from scratch at home.

Eating out in Albania is cheap.  We usually ate lunch for under 5€ a head, beer or wine included.   Most veggeie options will be starters and therefore extremely cheap, maybe 2-3€, and if you explain you are vegetarian you will invariably be given a larger portion.

qofte me kungull: courgette patties

It is a very good idea to get familiar with the names of vegetarian dishes and to be able to say "pa meesh" (no meat) or "une yam vegetarian" (I am vegetarian), "pereeme" (vegetables) and "soomeer" (very good).  Fortunately, unlike Spain, no-one bats an eyelid when you say you don't eat meat, and often the cooks are happy to adapt dishes for you.   By the way, many restaurants have a handy explanation in English of the dishes. On the one occasion when we couldn't understand the waiter in Pogradec, he led us to the kitchen to show us what was on offer that day.

A word about pancakes/crepes/pitas.  These terms refer to thin flat bread or pastry.  So in one place a pita was a huge thin pizza type thing but without tomato sauce. In another place, "pancakes" turned out to be the enormous pie made of layers of soft filo pastry filled with feta in the photo below. Tirana is full of creperias serving cheap (around 2€), filling and very tasty 'crepes' stuffed with a myriad of ingredients.

We only ate breakfast in a hotel twice; we were offered omelette, fruit, fried bread, cheese, salad, cake, juice and coffee, which is the Albanian version of the "Full English breakfast".

So, whilst it is true to say that I ate a lot of cheese in various forms, in general there were no problems finding vegetarian food.  I only ate pizza once, preferring to try things I can't usually get at home.  Restaurants will do everything to accommodate your dietary needs, as long as you can make yourself understood.  So make sure you've got your phrase book at hand!   Gezuar!

So here is some info about veggie options which I hope will be useful.

Copy and paste into your phone. 

sallate Greke (pron. salateh grekkeh): Greek Salad  ie feta cheese, tomato, cucumber, green peppers

sallate vend :  country salad, this was variable, in some places it was tomato, cucumber and onions, in others it was the same as Greek salad.

perime ne skare : grilled vegetables, eg. courgette, auberines, red and green peppers, onions, carrots.  Again there were several variations on the theme.  In one restaurant in Saranda, this was diced aubergines, peppers and courgettes, with feta crumbled on top and a generous serving of parsley. Soomeer!
perime ne furre : oven roasted vegetables
xatxik : tzatziki, Greek yogurt with chopped garlic and cucumber
burek : pasty
spinaq : spinach
djathe (pron. dee athe): cheese
djathe ne skare (pr. skareh):  grilled cheese  (sometimes called djathe aluminium)
fegese: cheese, pepper and tomato dip
dolma : stuffed vine leaves
qofte me kungull: courgette patties

chips (french fries) : patate te skuqura (pro. skoochura)
veze : eggs
omelette: omelet
fërgesë verore: delicious scrambled eggs dish  with chopped tomatoes and green peppers
supe perimesh : vegetable soup
supe fasule (pron. soop fasool) : bean soup

typical vegetables:

patellxhan: aubergine
kungull : courgette or pumpkin
patate (pron. pat at eh) : potato
karote: carrot
qepe: onion
speca: red pepper
extras:
buke (pron. bookeh) : bread
sheqer (pron. shecher) : sugar
uthull (pron. oothool) : vinegar
kripe (pron. kreepeh) : salt
salce (pron. salseh) : sauce

pije (pron. peeyeh) : drinks

uje (pron. ooye)  :water
vere (pr. verreh) e barde: white wine
vere e kuqe (pron. kooche) : red wine
leng: juice
raki : clear grape brandy, very strong!  Beware!

Çaj i zi  (pron. cha ee zee): English breakfast tea
kafe: coffee (but not as we know it Jim)
Kafe Turk is a small cup of thick strong coffee with sludge
Expresso and capucchino are available

Desserts: found in shops rather than restaurants

Trilece:  Albanian speciality, sponge cake soaked in milk and topped with caramel and whipped cream
akullore:  ice cream
kos: yogurt
cokollate (pron. choko lateh): chocolate
fruta: fruit
baclava and halva are also very typical. 

Most restaurants don't offer a dessert menu but you will be served a complementary platter of fruit automatically.

Cooking methods

skare : grilled
furre : oven baked
hell : roasted on a spit
i zier : boiled
skuqur : fried


check out my other blog Dawn's Bag, in which I record my travels:
https://dawnsbag.blogspot.com/2019/07/road-trip-in-romania-2019.html

Lake Ohrid, Macedonia, 3 day trip from Korça

To Lake Ohrid

So we had been having a wonderful time in Albania and were sad to be leaving Korça just as we were starting to feel at home, but our accommodation was already booked so we had no choice but to continue.  The journey to Pogradec is quite short, about 40 kms which we did in under an hour.  Our guidebook doesn't give the town much of a write up, but we stopped for lunch at the restaurant on a platform in the lake. It really is quite spectacular and the food is very good although trying to decipher the menu is a challenge. The waiter invited us to go to the kitchen to see what was on offer.

Macedonia

From Pogradec we headed to the Macedonia border control.  There were only a couple of cars there so it took us about half an hour to buy the green card for the car and pass through passport control.  However before we got through a policeman waved us to pull over.  We nervously handed over our passports again but he asked for the car documents.  Then he beckoned over his colleague to study the documents. Eventually he asked, "What is this Tata car?"   We told him that it is an Indian company.  "They make cars in India?" he replied incredulously.  :-)  

Only a couple of kilometres into Macedonia, St Naum Monastery is signposted down a narrow lane.  We were amazed to find a bustling tourist resort with souvenir stalls selling everything from Ohrid pearl necklaces to Barcelona FC beach towels, hundreds of people milling about along the beach, a wedding party in the middle of their reception and lots of people heading for the monastery which is now a posh hotel.  

The lake in the grounds of  the monastery is really beautiful, as are the gardens where peacocks roam freely. We only visited the tiny church  which has some impressive frescoes but I believe you can visit the monastery also.  NB.  There aren't any ATMs here but euros are accepted pretty much everywhere in Macedonia.

From St Naum to Ohrid is 30kms but takes about an hour.  Ohrid is a much bigger town than we had imagined.  This is one of the failings of relying too much on Tripadvisor.  We knew all about the things to visit in Ohrid (lots) but not a lot of the town.  According to Wikipedia,  it is the 8th largest town in Macedonia with 42,000 inhabitants.  In July it must be thousands more as the town is jam-packed with tourists.  The compact old town consists of narrow streets of traditional houses, restaurants serving local specialities, a few souvenir shops and even a couple of art galleries and museums. All  very pleasant . There is a thrilling boardwalk built over the lake, starting from just down from St Sofia church around to Potpes beach where you can find some of the best restaurants.  The walk at night, in darkness, with the waves lapping around our feet was quite amazing. (NB Ohrid is in the mountains and can be cold at night.)

The main drag, the Boulevard of the Macedonian Educators, runs perpendicular to the promenade and is lined with boutiques, fast food joints, souvenir shops, bright lights and loud noise.  Here, from early evening, there are so many tourists wandering up and down the street that you can literally hardly move. It is like Oxford Street on Christmas Eve. It is very much a family resort though.  A word of caution, I am pretty sure that a man tried to pickpocket me here.  

We visited the Santa Sofia and San Jovan churches, both of which have frescoes, and did the steep climb to the castle which was well worth it for more great views.  

Macedonia is different from Albania.  You notice that there is more money, the towns are more modern and tidier.  You would think that we would have been relieved, but the contrary was the case.  

Bitola   - Heraclea Roman site
On day 2 we had planned to go to Lake Prespa to check out the beach there, however having noticed ominous black clouds heading our way, we opted for Heraclea, a Roman site just outside of Bitola, 73kms and about 90 mins drive.  What a good decision that was!  I love Roman mosaics and these were among the most spectacular mosaics I have seen.  Be sure to get there well before the closing time as there is a lot to see, not only the mosaics but also a well preserved amphitheatre. The site appears to be semi-abandoned though, it looks like they ran out of money before finishing the project.
Although there was a big storm and it rained cats and dogs, 

the clouds eventually passed and the sun came out so we decided to have a look at Stenje Beach on Lake Prespa.  Again we found ourselves on narrow country roads but with gorgeous views of the lake.  The long, semi sandy beach is in a spectacular setting, surround by mountains.  There is a trendy glass fronted beach bar which is perfect for an early evening drink.

We stayed in Apartment Damjan in Ohrid in the old town, which was great.

Conclusion

Ohrid has a lot of interesting things to visit if you like history, the Lake is beautiful, although more expensive than Albania, it is still a lot cheaper than western Europe.  If you like the bustle of busy tourist resorts,  you will love it.  English is not so widely spoken and the cyrillic alphabet complicates meal times if you want to eat in traditional restaurants, although not so in the many pizza and pasta joints.  We all enjoyed our short time in Macedonia, Hercalea being the highlight, but we missed the warmth of the Albanian people. And the Korçe beer.

In hindsight, I wish we hadn't booked all of our accommodation in advance.  Yes we got good value but it was too restrictive.

Have a look at my blog here for more destinations:  http://dawnsbag.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/vigo-jewel-of-green-spain.html


check out my other blog Dawn's Bag, in which I record my travels:
https://dawnsbag.blogspot.com/2019/07/road-trip-in-romania-2019.html

"Why Albania?" they all replied. (part 1)

Why Albania?

Way back in the 80s I was sitting on a beach in Corfu gazing at the beach on the other side of the sea.  I could see people sunbathing there.  Albania.  Communist country.  They weren't allowed out and we weren't allowed in.   Bad people according to the Greeks.

Since then Albania has come a long way.  When I discovered recently that you can get a ferry from Corfu, I couldn't resist. So this is an account of our amazing 12 day road trip around the south and east of Albania, July 2017.

Albania is a developing country which will appeal to those with a sense of adventure and probably not to those used to five star hotels and package holidays.  Its outstanding natural beauty together with the friendliness of its people and delicious food more than compensate for the litter, half build apartment blocks, peculiar bathrooms and crazy driving.  

Planning 

The only guidebook that seemed useful was the Bradt but it quickly became clear that a guide published in 2014 is already way out of date, the same goes for road maps. We bought the Freytag & Berndt map which includes the Macedonia side of Lake Ohrid. I scoured internet for info and found a couple of newspaper articles, a couple of tourist info websites but the best source of info is the travel blogs written by backpackers.  

https://www.heartmybackpack.com/blog/travel-albania-beach/
https://www.goatsontheroad.com/10-day-road-trip-in-albania/

   

https://www.amazon.co.uk

Corfu - Saranda ferry

Being a popular resort, there are cheap flights to Corfu from many destinations although we had to fly via Milan Bergamo from Spain.  

There is an hourly direct blue bus from Corfu airport to the port, passing through the town centre for 1.70€.   Takes about  half an hour.  Beware that the bus times on the bus stops seem to be incorrect.  Remember Albania is not part of the European Union so you should be at the ferry station at least half an hour before your ferry departure time in order to go through passport control and security.  We arrived at Corfu Port at 1pm for the 2pm boat but there is only one checkpoint so we had to wait while the tourists disembarking from the ferry passed through security before the boarding passengers could go through. 

Although my online research lead me to believe there are three ferries per day, it's not the case.  There are several companies operating crossings between Corfu and Saranda in high season (Ionian, Finikas and Sarris Cruises).   On most days, but not Saturday, the last ferry from Saranda to Corfu is at 7.30pm not at 6pm as indicated online.  Tickets cost around 23€ one way and can be bought online or in the port. The boats are busy but I doubt you would find you couldn't get a seat if you waited to buy your ticket at the port at the last minute.  The hydrofoil takes 40 minutes and the slow boat takes about 90 minutes.

Tip: Make sure you allow a lot of time for all your travelling as things invariably take a lot longer than you imagine or that Google Maps might lead you to believe.

If you are leaving from Saranda you might not easily recognise the port building . It is a big orange and brown modern building on Mit Hat Hoxha street but bizarrely does not have any identification sign on the outside. You will pass through Albanian security quickly. The slow boats leave from exactly in front of the port building and the hydrofoil a bit further along to the right.

Tickets to Corfu can be bought in the port building for some companies and from an office 5 mins walk for the other company.

Saranda Port building is anonymous

Currency

Everywhere we went in Albania we could choose to pay in euros or lekes, most menus list both prices. The same goes for Macedonia where the currency is Denars, although they are not interested in Lekes. This includes paying for accommodation reserved online in euros on booking.com and Airbnb.com. Of course there will always be restaurants that are only in the local language and that can be a problem in Macedonia with its cyrillic script. In Ksamil the Tirana Bank ATM was out of order and the bank teller oddly said she couldn't give us any cash so we used an exchange bureau which gave a good rate of 1.30 L for changing cash into lekes with no commission and an ATM in a petrol station which gave a poor rate of 1.26L for drawing from a direct debit card plus 700L commission. Try to calculate how much cash you are going to need and withdraw a large amount in order to avoid commissions.

Accommodation

We booked all our accommodation online in advance through booking.com and Airbnb.com Prices ranged from 20€ - 45€ a night for a triple room.  Details included later.

The cheaper rooms were very basic but clean and fairly comfortable.  One issue which folk new to the area might find irritating is the showers which are very often without a shower curtain so you spray the whole bathroom with water.  There is always a mop provided to clean up after but it is a pain. You probably won't have microwave, hairdryer, kettle etc.  but you will have enough to make a cuppa and a pan of spaghetti.  In our experience hosts will try to supply anything you find lacking.

Our Itinerary

Day

1     Corfu Town, Greece

2-3  Ksamil, Albania

4     Gjirocaster

5 -6 Korça

7-9  Ohrid, Macedonia

10-11 Saranda

Corfu Town is lovely, crumbly, relaxing place to spend a couple of days.  I had been there a couple of times before many years ago and on arrival, instantly regretted not programming more time there.  Next time I will definitely stay 2 or 3 nights. Accommodation Is pricey compared with the rest of the island. We paid 52€ for a rather tatty attic apartment in a decrepid old building. 

Saranda

Pebble beaches

Saranda is not a quiet place, nor is it attractive.  The boom in tourism has lead to the inevitable boom in cheap construction of apartment blocks. The boulevard is lined with restaurants and loud music blasts out of the bars from about 9pm til midnight.  Mainly eastern European families pack the grey pebble beaches which means a lot of litter.  On the plus side, the water is clear and warm, the food is good and the people are friendly. Here's a tip: buy a pair of rock hoppers (those rubber-soled shoes surfers wear) as rocky beaches are the norm.  

The bus to Butrint, which stops at Ksamil, leaves from opposite the Hotel Butrint, which is at the far end of the busy boulevard.  There isn't an actual bus stop sign but you will likely see people waiting. Tickets cost 100 lekes and the ride takes about 20 mins.

 

Ksamil

Ksamil - Not the paradise we expected

A sculpture of dancing people occupies the main square and the place to get off the bus. Photos of Ksamil promise a beach paradise but the reality is something quite different. Once again a formerly stunningly beautiful landscape has suffered irreparable damage due to tourism.  Half build concrete monstrosities are everywhere, and with the exception of the main road, the streets are mostly tracks.  But the bitterest disappointment was the beaches. Hundreds of sun beds and parasols crammed together with hardly an inch of space between them impede any sight of the fine white sand we know lies beneath. The beach is divided into small sections divided by ugly concrete walls which are rented by the restaurants.  Loud music blasts out during the evening.  The sea is warm and crystal clear though and the food is great and slightly cheaper than Saranda. If you like the holiday resort atmosphere you will like it but it wasn't what we were looking for.

We stayed in Villa Odin which I can recommend.

Butrint

Beautiful surroundings of Butrint

The archaeological site of Butrint is easily reached by bus in 15 minutes and costs 100 lekes. However, we were approached at the bus stop by a taxi driver who offered to take us for 5€ which we gratefully accepted to get out of the baking morning sun. It is commonplace for people to offer to drive you for a small fee.

Butrint is a huge site, costs 700 L, the route takes at least 2 hours not including the castles on the other side of the river and involves a strenuous walk up to the castle. It is set in a beautiful location next to the river and is interesting if you like Roman ruins. Sadly the mosaics are not on display here, some are in the museum in Saranda. If you arrive in the morning you will coincide with various the organised groups, on the plus side you can listen to the guides explaining the features. If you want a quieter experience best go at lunchtime. There are no refreshments in the complex other than the cold drinks fridge at the entrance so make sure you take plenty of water with you. There is however a restaurant and hotel within walking distance before Butrint. We arrived at 10.30 and left on the 1.30 bus. In hindsight , it would have been nice to have lunch in the restaurant and then visit the sites on the other side of the river, I was especially disappointed not to go on the river ferry.

To Gjirokaster
We picked up a hire car in Saranda (320€ for 8 days, including extended insurance via rentalcars.com) and headed east. We stopped at St Nicolas near Mesopotami but were disappointed to find it closed for restoration.
 
Next stop was the famous Blue Eye Spring. Magnificent! Cars pay 200L to enter the National Park. We noticed several visitors who had come by bus but be warned that it is a long walk in baking sun from the main road. The spring water is freezing but we all had a swim. There is a popular restaurant by the lagoon serving decent, reasonably priced meals.

Freezing water but you have got to go in

From the Blue eye, the road winds its way up the mountain and through the valley to eventually join the main road to Gjirokaster, taking about an hour and a half. You need to have your wits about you as the road is busy and the Albanian drivers are impatient and not at all perturbed by overtaking on the bends or blind hills.

Gjirokaster is much larger than I expected. The narrow streets of the old town are surprisingly congested with Mercedes. The old bazaar is in fact a couple of streets filled with souvenir shops rather than the medieval market I had in my mind. You can drive up the hill to the castle whose vast entrance is very impressive although the rest is mostly ruins. Worth a visit though for 100L. We also visited Skendulaj House, one of the traditional houses which gives you an idea of how the rich lived in the 19th Century. Gjirokaster is a pleasant town but one night was sufficient for us.

We stayed in Tina's Apartment through booking.com Comfortable, airy and cheap, opposite the mosque.

To Korça

Here is where we really underestimated the difficulty and length of the journey, despite having already read that it would take 5 hours to drive 180kms. But yes the scenery through the valley is outstanding. 

The problems begin when you start to climb the mountains. We stopped at Permeti for lunch and hoping to see the frescos at the church in Leusa. We had a great lunch in a restaurant called Biofood something-or-other on one of the side streets but unfortunately were advised against trying to drive to the church. It was a scorching day so we decided to head on to Korça. Little did we know the task ahead. From here onwards the road is hideous all the way to Korça. We regret not staying a night in Permeti, partly because a swim in the river looked very appealing, we wanted to find out more about the town and partly to break up the journey, We had left Gjirokaster at 12.00 and arrived at Korça at 8.30pm exhausted.

Old Bazaar

But we fell in love with Korça. It is not a particularly attractive town but exudes a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. The huge modern cathedral dominates the centre of town and is one of the liveliest areas in the evenings. What is known as the Old Bazaar was another disappointment. The Ottoman Bazaar, found west of the bus station, was formerly a square lined by little shops displaying traditional wares on the street. Due to a windfall of EU funding, the whole area has been revamped, the shops turned into trendy cafes and a small shopping mall added for extra sophistication. Out with the old, in with the new. Such as shame.

outstanding Medieval art museum

We managed to visit the Museum of Medieval Art despite some confusion as it has recently relocated to a modern building next to the Bratko Museum on the main street (Shetitorja Fan Noli). It is a must if you are interested in medieval art, open from 10am till 7pm, it appears to be closed but go up and ring the bell as they keep the doors closed to protect the exhibits from the heat, and costs 700L. The Bratko on the otherhand seemed to be closed all day so we spent a splendid few hours on a terrace opposite chatting with the locals who were wont to invite us to too many rounds of raki to keep us talking. Opposite the bus station you will find a market selling local produce as well as a heap of tat stalls. The area behind the cathedral is one of the oldest parts of town and looks intriguing but we will have to see it next time. We also drove 5 minutes or so to Mborja village so see the frescoes at St Mary's church

which is locked but we asked at the village shop they got the key holder for us. We had a nice lunch in the restaurant opposite the village school.

We were sad to leave Korça, and feel sure we will return one day.  

We stayed two nights in the Blue Eye Hotel a couple of kms north on the road to Tirana, (it is apparently closed though), but they have a great swimming pool open to the public.

So, that was stage one.  From here we headed to Lake Ohrid, Macedonia,  which will be the next blog.

From Ohrid to Berat

After 3 days in Macedonia we set off for Berat (150kms) and what was to be the worst road conditions we experienced during the entire trip.  From Ohrid we headed for Struga and the border.  The checkpoint was very busy with lorries and took about half an hour to get through.  From there we continued to Elbasan on a narrow winding road, trundling behind cars and lorries travelling at a snail's pace and very few overtaking opportunites (at least for a sane person!).  Just before Elbasan we stopped at a petrol station to ask about the best route to Berat.  We were informed that via Fier is 100kms but a better road and by Kocove is 58kms and pretty but not such as good road.   We made the huge mistake of taking the shorter route, as recommended by Google Maps.  Much of the road was being dug up and bedrock being laid in preparation for asphalting. The parts that were not in roadworks were gravel tracks.  The journey took 6 hours in total and we arrived exhausted.  Hopefully the new road surfacing will be completed soon. 

Inside the Citadel

Berat is a lovely town.  Again bigger than I expected although we didn't venture into the new part.   The citadel is beautiful, built out of white stone, with a labyrinth of narrow streets, marvellous views, a lovely icon museum and some nice restaurants.  The boulevard is lined with restaurants and runs along the river, which incidentally we couldn't swim in as there was hardly any water. It is another town with a wonderful relaxed atmosphere which makes you want to stay.  We were only there one night so we didn't get time to visit the mosques or the other museums.  Another place to return to.

We stayed in the Hotel Osumi which was great.

To Saranda

Google Maps told us two and a half hours from Berat to Saranda, and it was, but with the foot to the floor whenever conditions allowed, which was almost never, but at least the road is mainly tarmacked. We headed north-west on the Tirana road which is  good as far as Fier (almost dual carriageway but flyovers don't exist so every couple of miles you have to break for a crossroads).  You have to drive through Fier which is very slow, although they appeared to be building a ring-road around the town.

We ended our trip with a couple of nights in Saranda, but I wished it had been in Berat, Korça or Corfu town. 

We stayed at Apartment Kladji which was way up a hill but quiet and spacious and with great views of the town.

Conclusion

All in all the trip was an amazing experience. The Albanian people are wonderful and will go out of their way to help you. The country is chaotic in many ways but there is an air of optimism that makes you feel good. Being able to get a room for 20€, a beer for 75 cents and a seafood spaghetti for 3€ is an added bonus.  

We have been asked lots of times if Albania is dangerous.  I can say that I never once felt uneasy.  Of course we were in small places.  My advice is to take the usual precautions you would take in any unfamiliar place in your own country; keep an eye on your bag, don't leave valuables on display in the car, don't put yourself in danger by being daft.  
 
Further tips:

Vegetarians don't need to be afraid, there are always good vegetable dishes on offer.

Driving is not for the faint-hearted. If you are going to hire a car, make sure you get full insurance.

Don't despair at the showers.

Take a torch. (I bought a brilliant one from a street seller in Corfu for 3€.)

Learn a few words, especially "faleminderit" which means thank you, and see how their faces light up when you say it. Take time to chat to the locals. 

Take out holiday insurance to cover your health care emergencies. (We used AXA)

A note about car hire. Take out extended insurance. Most insurance that comes with your hire car does not include driving on non-asphalted roads or damage to tyres. Also remember that many companies do not allow their cars to be taken out of Albania. Some will ask you to pay an extra fee ranging from 20€-80€ and you also have to buy a Green Card at the border which adds another 40€ to your costs.

We love Albania and hope to go back soon to explore more and revisit some of our favourite places.

River Viosa

Check out part 2 of this trip and my return to Albania in 2018:
https://albaniawow.blogspot.com/2017/08/lake-ohrid-macedonia-3-day-trip.html

Also have a look at my travelblog here for more destinations including Romania Road trip in 2019

https://dawnsbag.blogspot.com/

Viosa Valley