I love frescoes, and Albania has some very nice examples, the majority of which are to be found south of Tirana. At the moment there is a lot of discussion about the fact that many churches are completely abandoned, and so their frescoes are suffering. A recent newspaper article describing a small church in the south whose roof has collapsed, exposing its frescoes to the elements, highlights the urgent need to find funding to protect these cultural treasures.
https://archaeologynewsnetwork.blogspot.com/2017/06/post-byzantine-monastery-collapses-in.html
I haven't managed to visit all of them, but here is what information I have been able to gather about the best examples. Apologies for my poor quality photos, but as you know flash can't be used. I have included some links to images online.
Voskopoje, Korça
Half an hours' drive from Korça, Voskopoje is a lovely village boasting several fabulous churches:
- Saint Nicholas
- Saint Mary
- Saint Athanasius
- Saint Michael
- Saint Elijah
They are locked but the tourist office holds the keys and the woman will take you to them. If it is closed, ask in the bar and they will phone her. We were only able to visit 3 of the churches but Saint Athanasius, for me, was the most beautiful, with wall and ceiling frescoes. Take a torch as it is very dark inside. Photography isn't permitted but here is an excellent blog with photos:
https://blog.women-on-the-road.com/churches-of-voskopoje/
http://manuelcohen.photoshelter.com/image/I0000o5ObB9JkWMU
Vithkuq, Korça
St. Michael's church
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vithkuq
Mborja, Korça
Ristozit Church, 14th century, is locked but if you ask at the village shop, they will find the key holder.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g318868-d3476255-r360280919-Paleochristian_Church-Korce_Korce_County.html
Leusa and Kosina churches, near Permet
Mentioned in the excellent Bradt guide, but I havent been able to visit them as yet as we were told in Permet that it was impossible to get there in our car, and it was too darned hot to walk.
Dhermi
Tiny, crumbling St Mary's church is perched up on the hill above the charming village of Dhermi.
The frescoes are quite primitive but utterly fascinating.
Here is a link for much better images than I was able to get.
http://wikimapia.org/19741788/St-Mary-s-Church#/photo/5629002
Old Himara
The even more crumbly. There are lovely views from the ruins, and wandering around the old town is very pleasant, but there isn't a lot to see.
Ardenice Monastery
Dating from the 18th Century, this lovely little monastery is set up on a hill behind Kolonje.
Don't worry if it looks closed, knock and open the door and you should find a person waiting to show you around. The walls are completely covered with dark but interesting frescoes in reasonable condition. Go up to the gallery where you will find more frescoes.
Apollonia
13th century St Mary's church, inside the Roman site of Apollonia, a few kms out of Fier has a few pale frescoes, while there are large frescoes on the walls of the refectory of the monastery, but in poorer condition.
Shelcan, Elbasan
A few miles south of Elbasan, it is a pleasant drive up the hills to the hamlet of Shenesh.
The small church is locked but the neighbour will open up for you. The walls are covered in slightly faded but very interesting frescoes.
https://www.archaeology.org/issues/90-1305/trenches/754-albania-onufri-frescoes-vandalized
St Mary's, Berat
https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-frescoes-1578-st-mary-of-blachernes-church-berat-albania-32861045.html
St Theodore (Shen Todri), Berat
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Theodore%27s_Church,_Berat#/media/File:St._Theodor-Kirche,_Berat.jpg
King's Mosque, Berat
https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attraction_Review-g469422-d12347175-Reviews-The_King_Mosque-Berat_Berat_County.html
Krushov, Korça
https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-mediaeval-fresco-in-krushove-church-near-voskopoje-albania-europe-18342396.html
Et'hem Bey Mosque, Tirana
Next to the clocktower just off Skanderberg Square; however when I was there in summer 2018 the entire site was closed off as the mosque is undergoing restoration.
Kruja, Dollma teje inside the citadel
http://eleanoraroundtheworld.com/europe/albania/
St Naum Monastery, Macedonia
Just over the border, a short drive from Pogradec, St Naum is now a hotel and part of an unusual resort on the lake. The tiny chapel has some dark, but pretty frescoes.
I have no doubt that there are many more stunning frescoes adorning churches tucked away in villages all over Albania. If you have information on any, please let me know so that I can include them.
Happy frescoe hunting!
Check out my other blog Dawn's Bag in which I record my other travels:
https://dawnsbag.blogspot.com/2019/07/road-trip-in-romania-2019.html
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