2018 Albania revisted - part 2 - Tirana

Continuing our packed itinerary we set off again...

Day 4 Ardenice, Tirana

We had chosen the Hotel Natyra, Kolonje, for its proximity to Ardenice Monastery, which is a couple of kms further up the hill, not signposted, but turn left when you get to a T junction. 

Our first impression was that it was closed, but we tried the door handle and was open. The monastery is free to visit and a man will open the church whose walls are covered with marvellous frescoes which you are not allowed to photograph. Upstairs there is one painted wall which we were allowed to photograph. 

And on to Tirana.  

Traffic in the capital is rather chaotic but manageable.  Just keep alert for unexpected maneouvres from other cars.  Google led us on a right merry dance around tiny, back streets which were no more than tracks to get to our hotel.  We had booked 2 nights in Hotel Orchidea, principally because it is close to the centre and has a swimming pool.  What an excellent choice it was!  Frida, the young receptionist, gave us a warm welcome, albeit informing us that they had no record of our reservation.  We were put in a huge apartment on-site until a hotel room was available.  The staff must be the friendliest in Tirana and attended to our every needs, including bringing towels and pillows to the pool. Tirana is extremely hot in summer, so a dip in the pool was very welcome.

Tirana is quite clearly an ambitious city in the midst of transition.  Skanderberg Square is lined by an odd mix of huge communist era buildings, ottoman buildings, some random 20th century houses and shops, flanked by a couple of impressive new skyscrapers and the pristine Toptani shopping centre, which was deserted of customers when I was there.  

modern Toptani shopping centre empty on a Saturday

Day 5 - 7  Tirana

Tirana has a relaxed feeling.  There seems to be a lot of space (and not enough shade in the baking summer sun!) with the huge Skanderberg Square and its broad boulevards.  Having said that, out of the centre, the neighbourhoods are reminiscent of Athens for example: lively, colourful, rather run down in places, but with a friendly atmosphere.

the history museum

We made a bee line for the fabulous History museum in Skanderberg Square.  Exibits range from ancient Illyrian artefacts through medieval icons, communist and post communist memorabilia.  All fascinating.  About half of the museum is translated to English, mainly the ancient stuff, which is a shame as the 20th century exhibits really require translation in order to appreciate them as many are newspapers, posters or videos. Still, some of the photos and videos are spine-chilling. 


The old mosque would have been next on the itinerary but is currently closed for renovation.  The Tirana mosaic is also temporarily closed.  So on to the excellent National Gallery which hosts a splendid exhibition of socialist art. 

the dilapidated Pyramid building

Formerly a museum dedicated to the communist leader Enver Hoxha, the Pyramid is now dilapidated and covered with graffiti. But as it is on the boulevard leading to Tirana Park you might as well stop for a few minutes to watch visitor climbing to the top.   We went to the park to visit the British war memorial.

On the opposite side of town, a little out of the centre, is the Bektashi World headquarters which is well worth an hour.  At the gate, the guard will welcome you and find an English-speaking Dervish to show you around. The teke (temple) is huge, sparkling and ornate both inside and out.  The museum shows many aspects of the Order from history, clothing, traditional food etc.  Free admission.

Bunk'art 2  is situated only a few strides from Skanderberg Sq. and is a fascinating, if somewhat repetitive, insight into the communist era paranoia.  The underground nuclear shelter explains the workings of the secret police and includes many shocking videos as well as all sorts of artefacts: the first ever computer in Albania, spying and communications equipment, clothes, newspapers etc. 

entrance to Bunk'art 2

the control room with the first computer in Albania

Nightlife in Tirana centres around two hubs: the Old Bazaar, close to Skanderberg Square, is busy but fairly quiet and civilised; on the other hand the Blloku area, south of the river, is packed with revellers enjoying expensive cocktails with very loud music blasting from the speakers of each and every establishment.  Most of the food on offer is fast food, pasta and pizza. We also drove up the Djati mountain to dine at one of the traditional restaurants while admiring great views of the city, and were delighted to find a birthday celebration in progress with traditional music and dancing. 

Tirana is a great city; although it doesn't boast many historical buildings, there are lots of interesting things to see and do.  It is mostly walkable from Skanderberg Sq. and if not taxis, like everything else, are cheap.  Its relaxed, friendly feeling left us with a desire to return soon.

Next stop Korça:
https://albaniawow.blogspot.com/2018/08/2018-albania-revisted-part-three-to.html

check out my other blog Dawn's Bag, in which I record my travels:
https://dawnsbag.blogspot.com/2019/07/road-trip-in-romania-2019.html